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SEMI DWARF FREEDOM APPLE

$119.99

A Freedom Apple tree produces large, striking red, juicy apples that are wonderful to eat fresh, cook, or for baking. They have a tart flavor that will make you ask for more. They are disease-resistant and a good pollinator for ‘Liberty’ apple trees. These apples also store extremely well, which is a bonus.

Zones 4 – 7

Spring

Full Sun

12-15′ x 12-15′

green

white

GROWING ZONES

View Zone Map

4 – 7
Attracts Bees yes
Attracts Birds yes
Attracts Butterflies yes
Bloomtime Spring
Deer Resistant no
Edible yes
Fall Color yellow
Flower Color white
Fruit Color red
Garden Uses specimen, fresh, cooking/baking
Leaf Color green
Plant Size 12-15′ x 12-15′
Soil Conditions Normal
Sunlight Full Sun

Plant Features & Videos

What Does a Bare Root Plant Look Like?

 

Planting & Care for Semi-Dwarf Freedom Apple Trees

Preparation

  • Semi-Dwarf Freedom Apples Trees need well-drained soil that’s not too wet. They like soils that are moderately rich and retain moisture as well as air. Use mulch combined with straw, hay, or some other organic material to keep the soil moist and provide nutrients as they decompose.
  • Be sure to choose a sunny site. For best fruiting, an apple tree needs “ full sunlight,” (6-8 hours of direct summer sun daily). The best exposure for apples is a north or east facing areas.
  • Spring planting is recommended in central and northern areas. Where fall and winter weather is generally mild and moist, fall planting is successful.
  • Proper spacing for each size tree is important. Semi-dwarf – 12-15’ of space, dwarf – 8-10’ spacing, and standard apple trees 30-35’ of space.
  • Dwarf varieties will need some type of support to grow.

Opening Plant Material

  • Bare Root – Cut open the bundle (top and roots are tied) and separate all the plants. Soak roots in buckets of water until planted (soak for at least 24 hours). Each plant type will be labeled separately for identification. Do not expose the roots to sun. They should never dry out. Keep roots covered. All bare-root plants must be trimmed when planted.
  • Be aware that when you receive your plant it’s in a state of dormancy and will look very bare, this is normal.

Planting Bare Root

  • Dig a hole at least 6″ wider and the same depth as the root mass. The crown or graft of the plant should be slightly higher than ground level where it was grown at the nursery.
  • Trim off the broken roots and branches.
  • Do not use any fertilizer packets as this many “burn” your plant.
  • Spread the roots and fill halfway with soil, then water until soil settles completely saturating the soil and planting pit.
  • Re-adjust plant and fill the hole with the rest of the soil.
  • Back-fill the balance of the soil and water well.
  • Scroll to the bottom and click on the orange rectangular box “Handling & Plant Guidelines” to see an illustration on planting bare root plants.

Pruning – After planting (young tree)

  • Be sure not to heavily prune your plant too soon. Follow the instruction below for how to prune right away.
  • Prune and remove any broken or damaged branches or roots from shipment.
  • Remove branches that may be too low. This will also help promote faster top growth.
  • Additional pruning to help in transplanting can be achieved by selectively removing branches that are too close or otherwise might not be proportionate with the rest of the tree.
  • Scroll to the bottom and click on the orange rectangular box “Handling & Plant Guidelines” to see an illustration on planting bare root plants.
  • All pruning should be done with a sharp pruning shears.

Pruning – Through-out the Season (mature tree)

  • You’ll know when your tree is mature when it starts bearing fruit.
  • Prune your mature tree when it is dormant. Completely cut away overly vigorous, upright stems. These are commonly higher up in the tree.
  • Remove weak twigs (which often hang from the undersides of limbs).
  • Shorten stems that become too droopy, especially those low in the tree.
  • After about ten years, fruiting spurs (stubby branches that elongate only about a half-inch per year) become overcrowded and decrepit. Cut away some of them and shorten others.
  • When a whole limb of fruiting spurs declines with age, cut it back to make room for a younger replacement.
  • Thin out excess fruit is important for the health of your crop and fruit tree.
  • Soon after fruit-set, remove the smallest fruits or damaged ones, leaving four inches between those that remain.

Harvesting

  • Dwarfs and semi-dwarfs will bear in 3 to 4 years, yielding 1 to 2 bushels per year. Standard-size trees will bear in 5 to 8 years, yielding 4 to 5 bushels of apples per year.
  • Pluck your apples when their background color is no longer green.
  • Different apple varieties mature at different times, so the harvest season can stretch from August to October.
  • You’ll know to harvest when the stem of your apple should part readily from the branch when the fruit is cupped in the palm of your hand and given a slight twist around.
  • If the apple is overripe and soft, use for cooking!
  • Apples keep well for about six months at temperatures between 32 and 45 degrees Fahrenheit.

Watering – After Planting

  • Plants typically take approximately 6 weeks to establish new roots in your soil. During this period, water plants as often as every 2-4 days at the start and at least a minimum of once per week. Beyond the 6 week establishment period, water once per week, unless rains occur.
  • Stick your finger into the soil around 3” to check soil moisture.

Watering – Through-out the Season

  • After the first season, plants should only be watered during extended periods without rain.
  • How do you know if your plants need water? The easiest way to tell is to touch the soil around the roots. If it is moist, there is no need to water. If it is dry, give it a good soaking with the hose end (no nozzle) watering the soil only, not the leaves.
  • Stick your finger into the soil around 3” to check soil moisture.

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